Friday, October 13, 2023

אין מילים (No Words)

How to even put these feelings into words? I'm not sure, but I will try.

Where I'm coming from:

I feel I should start by saying I'm not Israeli. I am Jewish. My grandpa's siblings moved to Israel after the Holocaust - and one before - so I have cousins there. I spent my junior year of university at Hebrew University in Jerusalem. After finishing university, I spent a year as a volunteer on Otzma where we lived in an absorption centre for new immigrants in Ashkelon, just north of Gaza, heavily shelled last weekend. I also spent a few months in Kibbutz Shluchot, a religious kibbutz in the north, in the Beit Shean Valley, a few months in Nazareth Elite, in the north and a few weeks (or months? I can't remember) in Jerusalem. After Kenny died and I left my job at GW Hillel, I spent a year studying at Pardes in Jerusalem. In addition to those three years, I have visited many times. My family went on a tour when I was a child. Then as a 15 year old my parents let me fly over alone to visit friends and family (what were they thinking? It was a bit of a crazy trip...). I went on Ramah Seminar for a summer. Then my college boyfriend and I went to visit his family/my family and our friends during my sophomore year in college. I spent a summer in the summer program at Pardes. I went for a good friend's wedding in 2009. I went after a work trip to Jordan in 2018. Then we brought our family there for our first big international trip with three kids in 2018. I am probably forgetting some trips. I have a handful of good friends in different parts of Israel from all different parts of my life and have connections with hundreds of people living there. I am not Israeli - but I am so so deeply connected to Israel. 

While at Hebrew U, the bus stop - my bus stop - outside of our dorms was bombed. Someone was hurt but not killed (if I remember correctly, it was a soldier who happened to be bending down tying his shoes, so he was saved). My year on Otzma was during the second intifada. Uprisings started over Rosh Hashana and many people left the country. A night club in Tel Aviv was bombed. There were many bombs that year. I remember being on a bus that was driving from the north towards Tel Aviv, and driving through Hedera, the bus had to take a detour to go around a bus bombing that had just happened. We saw the wreckage. I feared for my life on a bus one time when someone got on my bus driving in the valleys in the north. He had long sleeves, big backpack, etc., and everyone on the back of the bus, where he had sat, came to move up to the front, sitting 3 in 2 seats. I remember feeling like I didn't have a natural sense of what was safe and what I should do. Israelis knew what to do, I followed their lead. The man was fine. Nothing happened. A friend of mine from our time together at Hebrew U was killed in a bomb at the cafeteria at Hebrew U while she was studying at Pardes. Beyond a horrible loss. Having spent time in Israel and with lots of Israelis, I have experienced loss, fear, and I understood Israel's vulnerability in its geographic location. But what has happened over the past week has blown all of this out of the water. It's absolutely beyond anything we have experienced before.

I am absolutely not an expert in the history in the Middle East. I do, however, understand that it is a deep rooted conflict, and it's beyond complicated. Do I think it's fair that Israel pushed out people to have a safe place for Jewish people. Absolutely not. Removing anyone from their land is brutal. However, we are where we are. The history has happened. The situation in Gaza is awful and has been a humanitarian crisis since I can remember. I have no idea what the solution is - how Israel can be a safe place for Jewish people, and at this point, where do they expect the Palestinian people to go? I don't know. I truly don't get it. And what the fuck has Bibi been doing with the government over the last few months/years. It's incredibly complicated. But again - where are where we are, so we have to move forward. There is no other choice.

I will just say that I have nothing new to say. But I am writing to get my thoughts out, and I hope it helps me.

Disconnected thoughts:

My direct people in Israel are physically safe. I say physically safe, because no one is ok, but they're alive, and they themselves are not fighting on the front lines. Their children are. Their cousins are. Their neighbors are. And everyone knows someone - most people know many someones - who have been killed or are missing and presumed hostages. This from an email from an Israeli friend:

"Yesterday my daughter was informed that her workmate was among the hundreds of young people who were hunted and brutally slaughtered during the Peace Music Festival. My riding buddy’s mother, an American, is among the missing either taken hostage into Gaza or her body butchered to the point it cannot be identified yet (due to so many bodies being in this horrific condition). All three of my children have lost classmates.  Several of our friends and neighbors have lost children. And we know there are still hundreds of unidentified bodies, wounded and hostages.

My daughter, my two nieces, and my son-in-law all called up for military duty. And we are the lucky ones. And I pray it will stay this way."

I keep thinking about people living in the south, especially Holocaust survivors, who trusted Israel to protect them. Many people living in these kibbutzim and villages were working for peace. They are not far right wing or settlers. They all trusted Israel. The IDF is the DEFENSE force - it's supposed to be the best in the world, focused on defense. What the fuck happened? Where were they? Where were they when people were fighting the terrorists or staying in their safe rooms for HOURS? Again - I am not a military expert. It's not a technical response I'm after - just a general question of how could something this big happen?

And I think about the poor survivors from the terror. How do they move forward after living through Saturday. Everyone is evacuated. Many lost their homes or their entire village or kibbutz. And HUNDREDS of people close to them. How do they move on? 

As a friend who is Lebanese said this morning at school drop off when we were discussing the incredible loss and situation with no end game - It had begun to feel like everyone could almost co-exist. But after these events, she fears this is a situation that is seeding a whole new generation of hate. I agree. How can young Israelis or young people in Gaza move forward without deep hatred for the other who has caused their incredible pain?

I had wondered what it could have felt like during the holocaust, specifically for my grandparents, but really for anyone, to lose their entire family. Or lose their home, dignity, safety and community. I truly couldn't have imagined it in the past. Today I can. I am not experiencing it personally - being safe in London with my family intact, but I see what it looks like. I read the accounts of how people feel. What they're saying at funerals. Again, it's beyond what we can understand, but I see it happening right now.

I heard on Pod Save the World that Israel found 1,500 dead terrorists inside Israel. That is a HUGE number of dead people and doesn't include the number of people who made it back into Gaza, many of them with hostages. And they managed to kill more than 1,200 Israelis. In the past when three or four Israelis or soldiers were killed it was an absolute catastrophe. The whole country mourned. Think of their mothers. Their fathers. Their lost futures. The number of people lost this past weekend is beyond what we can comprehend. EVERY one of those people has a family, a lost future, people mourning. Truly beyond what the mind can comprehend. And, as I was discussing with Elie, every one of those innocent civilians in Gaza also has a family. It is too much.

The worst feeling for me in all of this is the incredible sense of dread, doom and hopelessness. How can this end? What the fuck did Hamas want to come out of this? How are they better off? What can Israel get out of bombing the shit out of Gaza? And I'm not saying they shouldn't - I TRULY don't know what the answer is - but what is the end game? What is the goal? How does this end? These are millions of PEOPLE in Gaza. But how does Israel not respond to such a brutal massacre. I have absolutely no idea - but it can only get worse. Many many more people are going to die and lose everything. And then what?

Personally, I find myself single parenting this week in a city I don't really know. I know there are plenty of people who don't love Israel in London. Probably plenty of people who don't love Jews. But I don't have a sense of if we are safe. Is the kids' school under threat? I have no idea. Is it safe to walk around downtown? Go to synagogue? The group that advises the Jewish community on security said that the call from the past leader of Hamas for a day of violence today should not set off anything big happening in London, and they have no reason to believe anything will happen. Hopefully that's right. I just recognize I'm in a new place - a place I don't have natural sense of what is safe - and this past weekend shattered every assumption I had of what is safe anyway. If terrorists could break into those secure kibbutzim and villages in the south, it feels like anything could happen. I suggested Sam remove her magen david from their neck for today. I have never felt a need for that before. But I'm scared and feeling vulnerable - so what can I control?

I called one of my closest friends this morning, and I can't say "how are you?" All I can say is I'm heartbroken too. I'm sending you love and I wish you strength, and one day, I really hope we all come through this into more peaceful times. But in the meantime, I guess we just wait and see and do what we can to help. And we listen.

To help, we donated a big chunk of money to a few organizations: The Federation of Metropolitan Detroit's emergency Israel campaign, Magen David Adom and an individual fund set up by friends of a friend, helping with military needs. I am checking in regularly on the people I love in Israel. Most of my friends are mothers with children at home all day - there is no school. I would like to organize donations of things - but to be honest, my network in London is so limited, it feels incredibly overwhelming to try to figure that out - so for now I will stick to money which people can use to buy what they need. And I have tried to share some stories - I hope that my friends who's facebook feeds are not FULL of dead people, lost children, murdered grandmas as mine is are seeing some of the brutality and atrocity. I know Israel will be vilified for responding. But I hope people see how bad it was. Beyond bad. I really hope they see it. 

A few pics from our 2018 trip to Israel and some of the people we love in Israel right now.

Cousins - Roni and Shoshi are the parents of 3 kids and all their grandkids (5 + 1 on the way)

good friends from our time in Singapore, Gal and Ohad and their 3 kids

Me at my happiest - eating in the shuk in Jerusalem

one of my best friends, Dena and her 2 kids 

Hagit and Ofir lived below us in our building in NYC and became very good friends. We visiting them and their 3 kids

Sam and Koby's back at the Kotel

Monday, October 9, 2023

The Lake District (and War - but not there)

We just got back from a GORGEOUS weekend in the Lake District. But it feels really stupid to write about how beautiful it was and how great our trip was when Israel has gone to hell. I will still supidly blog about my trip, because the information could be useful, and I want to remember, but I have to say first that it is truly unbelievable what has happened in Israel. How all of these people can get across the border and into all of these cities, towns and kibbutzim is truly unbelievable. There is always so much security everywhere. How could all of these places not keep them out or defeat them? How did it take the army so many hours to get to some of these places? Israel is always the STRONGEST. You can't get in anywhere - everywhere is protected. I don't get it. And to think about all of the moms who have lost children - these terrorists took CHILDREN from their mothers and from their homes and kidnapped them. Where are they? How do you keep babies alive without love and care? Why? There are at least 150 hostages in Gaza. That is so many families who are missing people they love. It's mindblowing and so sad. And now thousands of people called up to fight. My neighbor said 300,000 - I don't know the number, but all of these people now leaving their families to fight. Ugh. So it's not that this didn't exist on our weekend. Any time Matt and I were away from the kids we shared info we had seen and just how awful it had been. We talked about it with the kids too - but not the gory details. Just awful. And who knows what's next.

And on to our weekend...

Friday there was meant to be a tube strike, and we were going to walk to the train. LUCKILY it was cancelled! So at 4:30, after the kids were home from school, we finished packing up and took the Northern Line to Euston. We waited outside until ten minutes before the train left and the platform number came up. We went through and onto our assigned seats. We said the kids could use their ipads after about an hour and a half, so they would look out the window and not be zombies. We went north, towards Scotland. It was beautiful. And then it was dark. 

At some point, I looked and saw that our connecting train in the Lake District was cancelled. We got off at Oxenholme, our stop, and indeed there were no trains to Windermere. There was a bus in another 1.5 hours, but then we still had to get a taxi to our final destination of Ambleside, so we decided to take a taxi all the way. We called a taxi company listed, and he said he doesn't do five passengers. Call this other guy. Other guy didn't answer his phone. Someone waiting for a taxi said to call a specific company in Kendal. Bingo. Giash saved the day. (Moved to the UK from Bangladesh when he was 12 - one of a very few Bangladeshi people in Kendal). He drove us to Ambleside (54 GBP including tip - not cheap, but it could have been worse). In the rain. In the dark. But we were sure it would be beautiful if we could see it. Checking into the hotel was similar - couldn't tell what anything was, but we were fairly certain it would be great if we could see it. We stayed at the Waterhead Inn (totally fine - would go again, though some of the B&Bs in the small towns looked SUPER cute). This is the red star on the map below. 

We woke in the morning and had breakfast in the hotel. Koby said it was the best breakfast he has ever had. He LOVED it - especially the scrambled eggs, fried eggs and canadian style bacon (shhh don't tell god). We hopped on a bus (2 GBP each to go as far as you want) towards Grasmere, the next town up. We got off around the blue star on the map below and walked around the SUPER cute town. We got some world famous Grasmere Gingerbread. It was indeed delicious and smelled amazing. Then we walked through some beautiful paths to a hike (the blue line on the map), the Rydal Water and Cave Circular. It was about 3.2 miles - but including the walk there and back and the walk home, we walked 9 miles that day. Not insignificant for small legs. Anyways - the hike started off as FLOODED. We took a long detour through some super wet boggy fields. I was the only one with proper hiking boots. Everyone's shoes were completely soaked. They moved on. We hiked up to this interesting cave, beautiful views, then down to the lake and back. On the way back, we decided to walk through the flooded area since everyone got super wet going around anyway. Matt and Sam walked through. The boys and I took off our shoes and socks and walked through. There was a coffee truck right there, so kids got hot chocolate. It was really beautiful, but truly everyone around us had hiking boots, and sneakers weren't cutting it. We walked back to Grasmere and ate at the Grasmere Brewery and Distillery. Food was amazing. We sat right by the fire. We were all happy, and I tried 3 half pints and got quite wasted, which was funny, since I think it was my first time being pretty drunk with my kids (they didn't know - I don't believe they read my blog...but I guess I'll find out). We walked more and took the bus back to Ambleside, to the super cute downtowny area there. We ended up getting cheap (but they seem good!) hiking boots for the kids and a few other things at a super reasonable outdoors store, and we walked back to our hotel. Dinner at the hotel was great. 


Gingerbread!

Peter Rabbit toy shop. Could not have been cuter.

On the super wet hike to Rydal Cave

Elie loved how this waterfall fell over the roots

Elie, his beautiful scenery and his brother


Every time I turned around, I couldn't believe how beautiful it was

The cave!


So much was covered with moss - this tree had so many colors.



hot chocolate after going through the flood

walking back to grasmere

they looked like spies

Elie really wanted his photo taken with this dude

just look down an alley, and it's gorgeous!

a boat on Windermere named MELANIE!


The next morning we had the killer breakfast again and took the bus to Grasmere again. We took the pink line hike up a BEAUTIFUL mountain to this amazing lake (called a Tarn?), Easedale Tarn Round. It was one of the most beautiful hikes I have ever done. Kids loved their boots and their feet stayed dry. Eight miles of walking that day. Elie and Koby were planning the rest of our holidays for the rest of the year - mostly focused on hiking. :) We think we will spend April break in England and Wales...It was lovely. We had a very late lunch at the end at a cafe in town - I tried a Coronation Chicken Sandwich and an onion and cheese pasty. Yum. We also tried some sticky toffee pudding thing that was delicious. The kids had multiple meals each. It felt ridiculous, but they were so hungry, and it's better than the crap snacks we have. I think they may have outgrown the children's menus...Here we split, and the boys and I took a bus back near our hotel and went for a loop hike behind our hotel up to a beautiful view of Windermere - the big lake in my map above. It included climbing over walls, beautiful gardens, sharing a walk with sheep and a LOT of stinging nettles, but we had long pants (trousers) and shirts on, so we were cool. Matt and Sam went back to the Brewery from the day before to get Sam a grilled cheese and chips, and then they went to Ambleside and walked home again. We had dinner at the hotel again and slept.

Sam liked the name of the book shop. Sam Read

On the walk to the hike

The houses were just so so beautiful

that's WATER falling down the mountain!


Elie needed a break. Sam always needed a break.


The tarn at the top of the hike



Sam was cold and chilled with Matt. The boys went on a longer walk to try to go around the lake. I made them come back. But they found that cool animal (sheep?) jaw.

See koby?

We had to walk across this riverish thing to take the other way down.

The way down was so so gorgeous

Multiple waterfalls on the way

All the world is a very narrow bridge. The important thing is to not be afraid.

The walk back to Grasmere

the prickly and singing walk above the lake



Elie said "it's a dead end hike" but then we saw these steps in the wall

what a view

Koby took this pic

this was slippery!

This tree is ON this huge rock

This was our hotel

Today we woke early, finished packing, ate a quick killer breakfast and caught the bus to Windermere. We took a train to Oxenholme and there we got a train to London. It was so so easy to get around - we had feared it would be hard without a car. If we wanted to go to some out of the way places, maybe, but since we were there for 2 days, and there were plenty of hikes that were rated 4.8 etc stars on AllTrails, we needed nothing else. 

The boys, Matt and I all LOVED the entire weekend. We LOVED the hiking, the food, the people, the hotel - all of it. Sam said they hate hiking and since I make them hike, it has also ruined their relationship with the outdoors. It was the worst three days of Sam's life (other than when our cat and dog died). Sorry, Sam.