Sunday, November 27, 2022

Greece

We just got back from a Thanksgiving weekend in Greece. The country is amazing and huge and so diverse, but we only went to Athens, Delphi and Meteora. And it was awesome!

While Greece is in Europe and feels like it should be close, it took us a damn long time to get there. We woke at 4am for our 8am flight and finally got to a place to eat lunch in Athens after 3pm local time, 1pm here (I was starving). We walked all around that Wednesday night, with the Acropolis looming above us. Kids loved exploring the streets and shops of Plaka. 

I was last there in 1998 with Shana and another friend from Hebrew U. We stayed in the same area and did the same things, but they look different now, and we could afford full meals, not just bread. The Olympics in Athens in 2004 brought a lot of hotels and updated tourist infrastructure. So that was after 1998 but not quite that close to 2022, so it was still a bit not quite new.

Thursday was Thanksgiving, but we didn't do anything for Thanksgiving. We went to the Acropolis early to skip the crowds (we did - there was no one there). Sam told us all about the mythology around it, and we looked at the amazing Parthenon and other buildings there. It's unbelievable that they're 2500 years old. Seeing an active archaeological site was cool. We walked from there to the Panathenaic Stadium, which was a highlight. It's about 1500 years old and totally functional - though a bit narrow shaped track. We walked through the gardens to the National Archaeological Museum. I had read it was a top museum in the world, but we decided that was probably not right - it was ok. But we appreciate the walk there and Koby made friends with a million and one pigeons. Meals in Athens were mostly at touristy places, but that's fine. Other than Wednesday night - no one else was hungry but me, so I went to this little hole in the wall by our hotel, and this lovely couple made me amazing chicken, babaganoush and potatoes. And they said to bring Sam back in few years to marry their son (hmmm). But that food was amazing, and they were lovely...

Friday we got picked up at our hotel by George from Private Greek Tours. He was such a superstar. We were with him until this morning, and he did a great job. He drove us to Delphi, taught us all about what we saw, brought us to a great restaurant for lunch and then up to Meteora. I find Delphi and some of the other archaeological sites confusing, because I can't understand half of what's written (it's all Greek to me?), and I don't understand what is history and what is mythology, and if the mythology was built into the history, how did these sites get forgotten and buried and lost for years (some of them anyway)? I am sure answers are out there with a bit of reading, but I'll be honest to say that I'm just not that interested in it, though seeing the archaeology is super cool and often awe-inspiring because of its size or how it was constructed. And the carvings and statues are amazing (my boys couldn't believe the amount of penises). Sam, luckily, has read EVERY Rick Riordan book and thus knows everything about Greek mythology so could answer all of George's quiz questions and knew all about every god we saw a temple built for. It was truly impressive.

Meteora is one of the most beautifl places I have ever been. Shana, the other friend and I went there also in 1998, and it was amazing then. But driving from monastery to monastery, rather than walking due to lack of cash, was a luxury. There are these huge sandstone rocks/mountains sticking up into the sky, and monks, starting in the 9th century, built monasteries. There were 24, and now there are 6. We went in two and saw all 6. I could walk around there all day. We did for a while, and then we also visited Trikala, a nearby city, which was ok, but I wish we hiked all day. It was so so so so beautiful.

Today George drove us to the airport in Athens - nearly 5 hours - and then we flew back. Long day. Day with the fewest number of steps since I moved to London: 6,707 (I'm averaging about 16,000 now). But we made it back. And George made a scavenger hunt in the car for the kids for the long journey. 13 rhyming clues in English placed in different parts of the car. What an amazing dude - above and beyond.

This was the kids' first time in a place where you can't flush toilet paper. I feel like that's ALMOST a developing country. It definitely felt a bit more hectic than Paris or London, and they could feel a difference. They did pretty well with the food - and nearly every restaurant has bread, pita, pasta, french fries and cheese, so they were happy, and we got to eat AMAZING Greek food. Elie's favorite part of the trip was the food. Koby's was this restaurant we went to twice in Meteora. Sam's was seeing so much of the mythology come to life. 

All in all, it was sad missing our families' Thanksgivings. We haven't participated since 2018!!! (2019 we had the stomach bug. 2020 was 2020. 2021 we canceled at the last minute, because covid numbers were skyrocketing) but it still feels sad. But we had a great trip.

Sorry - wayyyy too many photos but can't cut. You can skim :) And out of order as usual. Oy


The tunnel where the athletes would go onto the field at the Panathenaic Stadium


Bubbie and Zaydie came for a visit! We had a GREAT time with them and they saw a bit of our life here.

Scooting and biking to school is new the past few weeks, and the boys seem to enjoy it

Hanging with Zaydie

Games. Games. more Games.

Soccer/football on our street on a Saturday afternoon after soccer/football

scooting on the high street in St John's Wood, by their school. Decorated for Christmas

Giant chess in the park in St John's Wood. Elie beat me again and again.

How cute is this kid?

Taking the metro from the airport to the city


Athens our first night - Acropolis over our head!

Walking up to the Acropolis in the morning

Parthenon. Note Koby's backwards pants, but still hands in the pockets.


Bowen Bobcats at the Parthenon

kids in the thrones at the stadium. These were the seats for the king and queen


RACING at the stadium

they were LITERALLY FIGHTING for the gold medal place - #1. PUSHING each other off the stand. Though Koby beat both of the others in races multiple times.


Orange trees all over Athens

selfie pose!

at the national archaeological museum

Church in a square in Plaka in Athens

dinner. beer. sam.

The belly button of the world in Delphi

the theater in Delphi. What a view

We went to a super cute town for a little walk on Friday


The tree had grown around the water spout in the centre of town

This was the name of the town, but I forgot it, and I can only read uppercase greek letters...

This was at the restaurant we went to twice. They had greek yogurt with honey for dessert, and the boys could not get enough. LICKING their bowls clean.

The view outside my room in the morning in Meteora. Unbelievable

Monastery built INTO the mountain. See the ladder to the left of Elie - that's how they used to get in and out!


You have to wear a skirt, which I didn't remember or bring. So outside of the monastery I bought this for 2.5 euros. I love that a neon green wrap with mustaches is more respectful than not wearing a neon green wrap with mustaches.

Apparently the monasteries housed those fighting Nazis, and when the Nazis came, they fought them. Here is one getting pushed off a cliff, with a Greek person raising a flag behind him

I think this is our only pic of George (bottom left), because he was technically a driver and not a guide, he didn't come with us INTO anywhere.

Winding streets of Trikala. Looks like they're pointing at something and sharing a moment, but really they were poking each other and about to kill each other.

American football at the site of a Byzantine castle in Trikala. The ball did fall off a cliff. But it was rescued.

GOOOO BLUE!!! GAME DAY!!!! (On the castle clock tower with an amazing view)

The other side of the clock tower, looking at the town, away from Meteora




There were literally rainbows on BOTH sides of the sun!

We went for a small hike before sunset, and it just kept getting more beautiful.



You can see four monasteries in this pic

These are out of order again - this are from Matt's phone. Delphi

a monastery - you can see the routes that the monks' pee and poo took down the sandstone for hundreds of years

of course Koby had a bloody nose in a monastery

Walking to the largest one

there is a person in this cable car that connects the monastery to the rest of us (and near the road). See the cable car?

monastery. Loving those 'staches.

On top of the world for sunset. SO SO SO BEAUTIFUL!