Friday, January 3, 2025

Mauritius and South Africa

We had an amazing two weeks of holiday. Thank goodness we are back in peace and not in pieces (we kept hearing that in South Africa). And, our greatest accomplishment, we traveled for two weeks with three small suitcases, one large rolling duffel and did not do laundry. We came back with just about nothing clean, and we used everything other than two tennis rackets. I pride myself in my packing skills. (I don't pack for my kids, but I do give them lists).

We left school a day early (saved us about £500 PER TICKET) and flew over night to Mauritius. We landed, waiting more than an hour for a person to get us our rental car. He was working on us the entire time, all on paper. I drove for the first time in a developing country, other than South Africa, where I drove in 2006. Only trouble with this was that the indicator and windscreen wipers were switched even from our car in England - made for a lot of wipers in dry weather. We drove to our airbnb with a stop for lunch. GORGEOUS along the coast. We drove up up up, along crazy windy roads, into a farm and up to our little cottage. We chilled there for the evening, at their home-cooked Mauritian dinner (jackfruit curry, beans, rice) for dinner. Kids swam. We got eaten alive. Next day we drove to this hike that was 1.4 miles, but SO steep and SO slow after a short walk through the sugar cane fields. All fours required. No bubbies or savtas on this hike. And we got to see the most beautiful waterfalls. Sam was stressed at the beginning, but made it in the end with a great attitude after the first 30 minutes. We then drove to the other side of the island to go to the Sugar Cane Museum.  We learned a lot, but it was WAAAAY too much information and way too many words. We went back and chilled in the evening. The next day, we woke up and went to Chamarel where there are amazing earth colors from a long ago volcano. We then went to drop our bags at our resort.  Google maps told us we could drive on this side road, which happened to be IN a sugar cane field. My nightmare was that the road would end with no way out to the real road. It happened. There were huge boulders between us and the real road. I freaked out, turned and drove along the road and found a place that was easy enough to drive over. Not my favorite part. Our car was RED with dust. We dropped our bags, went to return our car and then went to the waterfront of Port Louis. It was also not my favorite. We had a bad lunch and then walked to the Port Louis Market. That was super cool, but it was super hot and crowded, and we wanted to head to the resort, so we didn't spend too much time there.

This is where we were :) Mauritius!

At lunch right after we landed. Super tropical looking

Our beds at our farm airbnb

Walking through the sugar cane fields to the scary hard hike

Near/at the top of the seven cascades

Market in Port Louis

Cool trees! Looked like round durians, but they weren't (I don't know what they were)

At the pool at on the farm. What a view. All around.

At the first of the seven cascades

hiking up...

and UP...

Another cascade

AND MORE UP...

Lunch at the sugar cane museum -  I got the Mauritian sampler. Food was really good.

Chamarel, the 7 colors

The dodo bird is the national bird of Mauritius!

Our next leg was six days at Club Med. Elie got certified for SCUBA (he was a CHAMP and loved it!). Koby found a friend, Lars from Ghana, and mostly hung out with him but complained a lot. Sam found two friends, Liv from London and Arabella from Estonia, and we barely saw her. I dove once, but then I got a cold, so I played tennis most of the week. We swam every afternoon. I snorkeled twice, once with Koby and once alone. We did a few of the evening activities. Sam and Koby did a lot of trapeze. Sam did this thing called "the catch," where she goes on the trapeze on her knees and then grabs someone's hands on another trapeze, swings with him and then drops. Koby hung from his FEET! We read a lot. Played soooo much Splendor and Lost Cities and some Uno. I appreciated EVERY SINGLE MEAL that we didn't need to prepare or even decide where or what we were eating. Those resorts are a mother's dream. All in all, it was wonderful. 

Elie doing one of his pool lessons


Koby and his friend and his other friend/dog

Sam is the one who comes in second!


Koby!

Trying to keep up this half marathon training. Two runs at club med. One in Joburg. Not quite enough, but we aren't allowed to run on the game reserve, and Joburg isn't safe, so I had no choice!

Sam on the beach waiting for Santa on Christmas

My brother would hate this. Sant arriving on a boat.

We got an electric menorah and lit it each night. Wasn't super nice, but at least we did it and sang each night.

We left early on the 26th to fly to Johannesburg. We went directly to our hotel, had lunch and then learned that the Apartheid Museum - pretty much the whole reason we went to Joburg - was CLOSED for more than TWO WEEKS!! WHAT??? So disappointing. We hung out, went for a long walk around Melrose Arch, had dinner and slept. The next morning, we went on a tour of Soweto. We saw the different levels of housing, and we got a walking tour in one of the poorest areas. The kids have never seen people live like that before - we felt like we had more on us than the people there owned. It was very eye-opening for them. Matt and I did a township tour in Cape Town 18 years ago, and we have seen poverty around the world, but this was our first time in Soweto. We learned a bit about Apartheid and about the Soweto Uprising. We saw Nelson Mandela's house and went in - we saw two documents from the State of Michigan! We also saw Desmond Tutu's house, on the same street. We later met up with one of Matt's colleagues, ate and slept.


Melrose Arch area had fun lights for Christmas

We were staying at the hotel with the Pakistan cricket team! Koby said, "wow all those people must really like Gatorade! They all have it all over their shirt!" They were in a multiple-day match against South Africa. We watched part of it on TV and recognized some of the players!

Soweto


Ladies washing in Soweto. Unbelievable that ALL of these people in a recognized place to live have NO ACCESS TO WATER other than one tap for the community. Really outrageous. And nearly no traffic lights that we saw in the Joburg area worked. SOOO many potholes. Really missing some key infrastructure.

Learning about Hector Pieterson

In Nelson Mandela's House

Our last leg was a safari in the Kruger Park area. The place we stayed is in Balule Game Reserve, which is a private reserve, but the gates are open with Kruger, so it has all of the big five and pretty much everything. We did an evening drive when we got there, ending at a BBQ. Elie and I went on a bush walk in the morning (5am!), while the others drove, then we did an afternoon and evening drive. We spent an entire day at Kruger. We spent half a day at an animal rehabilitation centre, then we did more drives after that. And finally on the last of the 5 days, we did a morning drive and then got a ride to Joburg. We were meant to arrive at the airport at 5 for a 7:25pm flight. In the end our flight was delayed until 4:05am, so we went to a hotel near the airport, chilled (I ran), ate and then slept from 8:30-1am when we went to the airport. The kids LOVED the safari. We loved this one family we met and spent the entire five days with. They would have stayed for wayyy more days.


Lions our first night. Family of nine.

Dung beetle

Why did the elephant cross the road?

Buffalo

Zebra crossing

Termite house with our amazing guide, Smiley

Bush walk with Elie

So many hippos in the river


Pool at our place. Our two rooms are right on the other side of the pool. Weather was HOT!!


 
Wild dogs! Rare sighting! The only pack in this area

Wild dogs chilling

What a landscape


Another night...

Elie got hives on Monday in Kruger. Then Wednesday. And still...

Kudu


Wildebeast



Lion sleeping (was sleeping anyway)

Ground horned bill or something like that. One was carrying around a frog.




As she was telling us how dangerous elephants are, and how this one was angry, I dropped my water bottle. Watch with sound.


All bones from the lodge area

Warthogs! The babies were really cute!

waking up the white lions

At Maholoholo

Leopard at Maholoholo



Drink on a sunset drive

Nearly back at our lodge when Smiley got the call that someone else had spotted a rhino. We turned around and FLOORED IT to see our first rhino (but he didn't tell us what we were aiming for until we saw it with our own two eyes).


Last morning drive at 5am. Zebra and implalas. Two baby zebras


This baby was three days old. Nursing.

Blyde River Canyon


Our friend Leo took this of us at the canyon

I was not the most relaxed. It turns out I just don't love traveling that much, but man, everyone had such a great time. They realize how lucky they are. This was an experience of a lifetime. 


Our updated post box

Savta's visit!

Papa's visit!

Sam at the stables

Terrible pic, but I don't want to forget that one day on the way home from school, there were reindeer in the Swiss Cottage area! RANDOM!!

We lit our menorah, even thought it was the 9th night of hanukkah